SEED Guide
5.5. Nike's Flyknit Shoes
Depending on your age, you may still feel that Nike’s Air Jordans are the top in technology for athletic shoes. Beyond what Nike calls the “colorways” and designs available in Air Jordans, Nike’s more recent Flyknit technology allows for more intricate and detailed customization options, offering lightweight construction, adaptive, and sustainable solutions that enhance performance and comfort. Nike used design thinking to create its Flyknit shoes by involving athletes in the design process. Iteratively prototyping different designs, Nike was able to create a product that meets the specific needs of its users. While Nike incrementally introduced changes in materials and manufacturing for many years, the launch of Flyknit in 2012 was a fundamental breakthrough in sustainable innovation. Designers, programmers, engineers, and athletes joined together at Nike’s Innovation Kitchen to develop a shoe that would meet runners’ demands for a more comfortable, high performing sneaker while simultaneously reducing manufacturing waste.
Empathizing: Nike conducted extensive research to understand the environmental impact of its shoe manufacturing process, including material waste, energy consumption, and carbon emissions. Nike's journey through Design Thinking begins with empathy, focusing on understanding the athletes it serves regarding their preferences for footwear design, comfort, and performance. Nike invests extensively in understanding the needs, aspirations, and challenges of its diverse consumer base. Through athlete interviews, surveys, and observations, Nike learned that these athletes were looking for a more sock-like upper construction of their shoes.
Re-defining to understand: After gaining insights into athletes' experiences, Nike defines its goal. It goes beyond merely producing sports gear; it involves addressing the performance and comfort issues athletes encounter and the development of a more sustainable shoe manufacturing process that reduces waste and environmental impact. Nike recognizes that sporting success isn't just about the athlete but also the gear they use. For that, the process required not only rethinking the design, but the entire process of manufacturing shoes, which required inventing new machinery and software. While sneakers are traditionally made by gluing and stitching multiple pieces of material together, Nike developed a method to use one continuous thread woven into a lightweight shoe that would allow for more breathability and support and adapt to a foot in motion. Key criteria for success included reducing material waste, lowering energy consumption, and maintaining or improving product performance and comfort.
Ideating: Ideation is the aim of Nike’s multidisciplinary team of designers, engineers, materials scientists, and sustainability experts. For creative and innovative athletic gear, they brainstorm innovative solutions that combine performance with style. They create cushioned running shoes and incorporate moisture-wicking fabrics in their commitment to pushing the boundaries of athletic wear. Imaginative and inventive designs from Nike include using advanced knitting technology to create a seamless upper for shoes, reducing material waste, and streamlining the manufacturing process. For example, the lightweight construction comes from knitting yarns that together form a seamless, sock-like upper using a precise engineering process. This construction significantly reduces the overall weight of the shoe compared to the traditional cut-and-sew method and the materials used in Air Jordans. Ideas for reducing waste during production are largely related to constructing the upper to exact specifications required for each shoe size, which contrasts with used in manufacturing Air Jordans. In addition to sustainability ideation, other ideas generated for Flyknit-inspired sales include limited-edition releases in collaboration with athletes and artists, exploring the possibilities offered by customization and personalization through variations in color, pattern, and structure within the knit upper.
Prototyping: Nike moved into the prototyping phase using the new knitting technology, experimenting with different materials, knit patterns, and structures to optimize performance and sustainability. Tangible models of their athletic gear were created to rigorously test their concepts and these prototypes are tested under various conditions to ensure they meet the demands of athletes so that the products not only look good but also perform up to the standards established. Note that Nike spent over 10 years producing nearly 200 prototypes of the shoe. Issues related to stretch, support, and breathability within the upper material have impacted the prototyping so that the precision fit conforms to the shape of the foot, providing a snug and supportive feel without sacrificing flexibility,
Evaluating: Nike involves real athletes in the testing phase. These selected athletes provide critical feedback on the prototypes, which is used to fine-tune their athletic gear that is inevitably tested again. This iterative process guarantees that the final products meet the performance standards expected by athletes for durability, comfort, flexibility, and performance. In addition, environmental impact assessments are conducted to measure the reduction in material waste and energy consumption compared to traditional manufacturing methods.
Implementing: Nike launched the Flyknit shoe, featuring a seamless knit upper made from recycled polyester yarn, as a groundbreaking sneaker innovation. The revolutionary method of manufacturing enables Nike to create shoes that excel in performance while reducing the number and amount of materials used and cutting waste by a reported 80%. Nike also introduced sustainability initiatives such as the Reuse-A-Shoe program, which collects old athletic shoes for recycling into new products. Nike has saved 3.5 million pounds of waste since Flyknit’s launch and diverted 182 million plastic bottles from landfills by switching to recycled polyester in all Nike Flyknit shoes. Flyknit provides just one example of how Nike is driving profitable growth and reducing risk through sustainable innovation.
Further reading:
- Barath R., Nike's Winning Stride: Design thinking in athletic innovation, https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/nikes-winning-stride-design-thinking-athletic-innovation-barath-r/, 19 October 2023.
- Carly Fink, Nike: Sustainability and Innovation through Flyknit Technology, NYU Stern School of Business, Center for Sustainable Business, https://www.stern.nyu.edu/sites/default/files/assets/documents/Nike_Carly_04.2017%20-%20Copy.pdf, August 2016.
Discussion questions related to Nike’s Flyknit Shoes
- What makes Nike Flyknit different from their Air Jordans?
- What cool ideas did Nike come up with to make their Flyknit shoes more sustainable and better for athletes?
- How can an iterative process like design thinking ensure the development of products that meet athletes' needs and preferences?
- What sustainability initiatives has Nike implemented on the launch of Flyknit shoes, and what impact have these initiatives had on waste reduction and environmental conservation?
- How has the introduction of Flyknit shoes influenced Nike's overall approach to innovation and sustainability in athletic footwear?
- How does Nike involve athletes in the testing phase, and how does their feedback contribute to refining the design and performance of Flyknit shoes?
- How has the Flyknit technology influenced consumer perception and purchasing behavior towards Nike products, and what impact has it had on the company’s profitability and market position?
- How did Nike incorporate athlete feedback into the design process of their Flyknit shoes, particularly in terms of addressing preferences for footwear design, comfort, and performance?
- Evaluating the environmental impact of Nike’s other manufacturing processes, how does Flyknit technology contribute to sustainability and performance improvement in athletic footwear?
- Can you explain how Nike has integrated feedback from athletes into the ideating and evaluating phases of Flyknit shoes?